Now for many a homebrewer the options that are available to them for storing the beers after fermentation, either to bottle beer or to keg the beer, now there are a few pros and cons for either method, but I’m not going to get into those in this article. This article is all about how to make a duel tap kegerator out of a mini beer fridge. Enjoy!
In this Guide
Why did I build my own DIY Kegerator?
Last year I had some kegs, I needed a fridge and I have one of those picnic taps that I was pouring my beer into a glass, and I thought for a little bit more I literally got this fridge here and on a buy and sell website for about $50 and for a little bit more of an investment, I can have something like this. So this article is basically me just showing you guys how I put this together, for a very small cost. In total I spent probably $130-140, a new one here in the States and or Europe costs around $400-$700 to buy.
So lets first forget about that price, read the article, have a look at how I did it and hopefully you can do it too.
Here is how I went about it!
Step 1 – Drilling the holes
Right, so the first thing that I needed to do was to mark out the four holes for where the tower was going to sit. I have one center hole approximately two centimeters for the beer lines, and then tree smaller holes for the tower’s grooves. So once the holes are made, I was then able to run the beer line through the main hole, and then connect the two lines to the corning keg black disconnects with those little small jubilee clips.
Six foot of beer line cost around $8 for each tap, and then the gas and beer disconnects for the kegs cost about $15 for the two sets from Amazon. Then I connected to beer lines to the top faucets, and then tighten them up with two jubilee clips.
Step 2 – Adding the fittings
Another hole approximately two centimeters was drilled in on the side of the fridge, to allow for the two gas lines and these are the two grey disconnects for those two gas lines.
Step 3 – The Kegerator Tower
Now for the tower, these towers normally come with a base rubber ring which I use for marking out the holes earlier on; I then drop this over the older beer lines and then position it over the pre-drilled holes. So the tower came with an inner installation tube, which basically slides up the inside, I then ran the two outer beer lines up through the center of the tower, and then pull them out from the top.
I then fix the tower over the rubber ring, making sure then that all the holes were aligned.
So for fixing the tower in place, I use three long threaded bolts, three washers and three nuts, which I purchased for around 50 Cent’s at the local DIY store. Each of the long threaded bolts were then slipped down to the holes of the tower base, and down into the pre-drilled holes in the fridge.
Now I needed to ensure that the threaded bolts were long enough, to protrude from the holes inside of the fridge, so getting the correct size bolts is very important.
Then it was a simple case of placing each of the washers over to thread bolts, and screw on the knot. Now you can see here that I’ve only used three threaded bolts as a fourth back hole just wasn’t possible due to the position of the tower, but that’s absolutely fine as three bolts is more than enough to keep this tower steady.
I then just have to hand tightened the knot as much as possible. I use the screwdriver to hold a shredded bolt in place, while I tighten the nut from inside.
I was then able to lower the tower base cover which conceals the bolts heads nicely, now for the beer top faucets themselves, these came with a lock knot which I screw down to the base of the faucet shank.
Step 4 – The Top Foucets
The top faucets and tower cost approximately $90 and that was from Amazon at the time, there is also a black plastic flange which is very good for kind of concealing that hole on the actual tower itself, and I’ll just set that in along then with a rubber and a plastic ring for inside to tower itself. So I take the black rubber ring and the plastic washer and I place them in position over the shank hole, and that’s on the inside of the tower, I insert the faucet shank through that hole to connect with the hose barb top connector, which I attached to the beer lines earlier. Holding the inside nod of the hose barb connector, I was then able to hand tighten the top faucet.Now this particular top faucet also came with one of those tightening wrenches, and these are very handy as I wanted to ensure that the connections were really tight to avoid any unwanted leaks.
I then hand tightened the outer lock knot up against the black plastic flange, and then following that then I use the wrench again just to ensure a nice tight connection. Same deal then for the second tap, on with the black rubber inner ring, connected to hose barb top connector with the faucet shank, tightened up my odor lock knot against the black plastic flange, and then use the wrench to secure a nice tight connection once again. So the chrome beer tower came with a top inner circular foam insulator, which I placed over my inner connections, then it was just a case of popping on the top tower lid and then locking knot down securely. Onto the chrome effect beer top decal holder, so the base of the decal holder is connected with two screws to allow you to connect them over to faucet lever collar, I designed each of the beer labels on my laptop, printed them off, stuck on clear vinyl over the face of them and then cut them to size with a scissors.
Step 5 – Decals
Taking the decal holder on one hand I placed upside down over the faucet lever collar, and connected the base of the decal holder and screwed it loosely into place. I then spin the decal holder around upright at a slight angle, and then tighten those screws so the decal holder is secured to the top faucet itself. Same deal with the second decal holder, pop it on upside-down to catch the base of the decal holder, tighten it on with your screws but don’t tighten them up yet, spin the decal holder around upright, fix it into position and then fully tighten those screws. All that’s left to do now is to connect the black corner keg disconnects to the in-connect post for each of your kegs, place your kegs into your new Kegerator, add your beer tray I got this one Amazon for around $30 and voila.
Step 6 – Finishing off
So guys essentially that’s all that’s required to put together one of these DIY Kegerators, you have your decals, you have your 2 taps, your rear faucets, your tower and your tray all connected to the lines and slide down into your keg.
You’ll obviously have your co2 cylinder either inside or outside, which we connect then to a gas, I’m going to connect then to your in-connect on top of your kegs. This is really not much in it, as you can see as well the finish on this unit is a lovely matte jet black vinyl, which I got from one of the local sign makers and I measured up the top and I measured up the front and I cut it down to size and I slowly took my time to stick it on. Now it can be slightly complicated, but it worked out really well for me in the end and I just sprayed both sides black.
That’s really it guys, I hope you enjoyed reading!